Growing Autumn Flowering Daffodils
by Nial Watson of Ringhaddy Daffodils
Not that many years ago hybrid daffodils flowering in the autumn were a fanciful dream but now there are more and more of these wonderful varieties becoming available. Just when a “daffodil fix” is needed, half way between the end of one season and the beginning of the next, these little gems show their heads. They do require a bit more effort to grow than spring flowering varieties but that effort is well rewarded.
The most important detail to remember is that most of them require a hot, dry dormant period and although they will grow in the open, in reality, they need to be grown in a controlled environment in order to achieve blooms every year and that means growing them in pots.
Basic compost with a little more drainage than one would use for spring bulbs is ideal. Deep pots are an advantage although we have had success with most types of pot. Plant the bulbs as soon as you receive them (September), and water at once. The pots can be either outside (frost free) but we prefer to have them in a cool part of the house as too much wind is a problem at this time of year. Growth starts almost immediately and in a couple of weeks the green tips will be showing. At this stage water with whatever fertiliser you would normally use for pot daffodils then sit back and enjoy the flowers starting a few weeks later, depending on which variety you have. Once flowering is over continue to grow on, as you would for spring flowering daffodils, until the leaves start to die back. At this stage stop watering and allow the compost to dry out. Once the leaves have shrivelled up clear the top of the pot and fill in any holes left by the dead leaves and stems. Now is the time that it differs different from spring flowering daffodils – they need heat. We have a large Polytunnel with crop bars every 2.5 meters on which we have a platform where the pots spend the summer. This puts them high in the roof of the Polytunnel where the temperature on a sunny day can be as high as 40C+ and rarely would drop below 20C.
In August take the pots out of the heat, knock out the bulbs and store in a cool airy place until you start the whole process again but this time you will have extra bulbs due to the offsets which will inevitably be attached to the mother bulbs!
Yes, it does require that little more effort but what a challenge and what rewards.
Nial Watson
December 2013.
The most important detail to remember is that most of them require a hot, dry dormant period and although they will grow in the open, in reality, they need to be grown in a controlled environment in order to achieve blooms every year and that means growing them in pots.
Basic compost with a little more drainage than one would use for spring bulbs is ideal. Deep pots are an advantage although we have had success with most types of pot. Plant the bulbs as soon as you receive them (September), and water at once. The pots can be either outside (frost free) but we prefer to have them in a cool part of the house as too much wind is a problem at this time of year. Growth starts almost immediately and in a couple of weeks the green tips will be showing. At this stage water with whatever fertiliser you would normally use for pot daffodils then sit back and enjoy the flowers starting a few weeks later, depending on which variety you have. Once flowering is over continue to grow on, as you would for spring flowering daffodils, until the leaves start to die back. At this stage stop watering and allow the compost to dry out. Once the leaves have shrivelled up clear the top of the pot and fill in any holes left by the dead leaves and stems. Now is the time that it differs different from spring flowering daffodils – they need heat. We have a large Polytunnel with crop bars every 2.5 meters on which we have a platform where the pots spend the summer. This puts them high in the roof of the Polytunnel where the temperature on a sunny day can be as high as 40C+ and rarely would drop below 20C.
In August take the pots out of the heat, knock out the bulbs and store in a cool airy place until you start the whole process again but this time you will have extra bulbs due to the offsets which will inevitably be attached to the mother bulbs!
Yes, it does require that little more effort but what a challenge and what rewards.
Nial Watson
December 2013.